Tags: miscellaneous|midbust


Star Trek Corset

 photo IMG_5382_zpscb0b6eb2.jpg photo startrekcomp_zps48b27d0e.jpg
20" Overbust Victorian style corset for my friend Caitlin made from a black and white Star Trek Print cotton. Corset has coutil strength layer, spiral boning and flat steels front and center. Front and back modesty panels, self binding. Caitlin gave me a pre-fit pattern (TV110) to work from since she has several costumes that already fit over a pre-exhisting corset. In trade for the corset, Caitlin is styling me a fantasy wig similar to the one she created for LOJ: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/92216.html

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Mid/over bust ribbon corset

My dear corsetmaker colleagues,

I wanted to share this beautiful ribbon corset as I've never seen anything like this one before. As the title suggests, it's a mid/over bust ribbon corset. All of the ribbon corsets I've seen were under bust.

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red fake leather corded corset

Finally done
One of the corsets described in Jill Salen's book caught my eye and I could not resis the temptation
What is more I had found this lovely red fake leather and decided to use it right away.

I will edit the post later on adding pictures of me wearing it :-)
so far just the corset

it's about 21" in waist (I will need a huge modesty panel)

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Mockup, with bust and hip fitting questions

(Pardon all the fluff... I wasn't confident in my drafting, so I cut reeeeally wide seam allowances. And that wrinkle across the center front panel? I did a toe touch in this thing. It's ridiculously comfy.)

I've my very first mockup fitted together! I'm still in love with the hip curve and the side swoop... They're just as lovely as I was hoping they'd be. I boned it in 1/2" Zipties, since I wasn't sure if I had the height right or not and didn't want to waste my good boning. When I first laced it up, the fit over the hips, belly, and back was perfectly smooth with no pooch overhanging the underarm swoosh. The problems I saw were ones I'd half expected. The front of the corset from the top to about 2" above the waist gaped badly. I hadn't altered it for my small chest, figuring that it would be easier to do that alteration in fabric than in paper. I took off about 4" total from the bust out of the front 2 seams on either side between that first try-on and taking these pictures. The top line across the bust was too low as well, coming in about a centimeter below my nipples.

Since things were comfy, I wore it around for a while to see how it would settle, if it would twist or make any hotspots with motion and extended wear. I noticed that it has a tendency to ride up slightly, which while making the top line land in the right place (about an inch higher than previously), it tightens the fabric around my ribs in a way I'm not too fond of and puts pressure on my back, just above the waist on either side of the spine, especially when I'm sitting. It also developed a wrinkle above the hip, at waist height on the two side panels. I'm assuming at least part of that wrinkling is the adhesive on my masking tape not putting up with the extended wear and umpteen dressings and undressings, but I think part of it may be in the fit.

I think the hip needs more room at the top of the curve, especially at the rear seam. Am I correct, or does someone see a problem elsewhere that could be making this effect? As for the bust, I'm assuming I need to raise it slightly or put a very stiff, tall trimming on it, as well as take in more fabric. Where should I take it from, though? I really don't want to end up with the center front and the two flanking pieces perfectly rectangular, and I'm afraid they will be if I take out enough to give me actual bust support.

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ETA: Almost forgot! Those of you with more experience than I: is the angle at the waist too sharp? Is a 1" wide waist tape going to make weird bulging happen? (You know what I mean... when the fabric has more room than the waist tape does at top and bottom, so the corset gets two big bulging lines all the way around the middle...)

And the last post I made in this comm about this corset is here. More of may prattling about this project is in my journal, if anyone wants more information about the intervening steps.

Satin and Ivy

Read a lot, but this will be the first time I've posted a project that I've done.  I used the Ageless Patterns' (I think that's who's it was...  can't dig out the pattern atm) riding corset.  The embroidery is all hand done with a pattern/stencil that I created and DMC floss.  Unfortunately, the person that I made this for went and got smaller on me (not that I can really hold it against her... healthy weight loss is always a good thing)...  I plan on taking in the back gores so that it fits her hips a little bit better.  Luckily, the rest of the corset fits nicely, it just closes all the way in the back.  She initially wanted a 6 inch reduction with a 2 inch back gap.... but unfortunately it doesn't do that anymore...  lol.

Details and pics after cut.

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1840's Quilted Corset

Just finished another corset!
The corset is made from one layer silk satin, one layer organza backing, with a strength layer of coutil. Quilting is cotton batting and white silk thread. Decorative three-thread zig-zag stitch for the bone casings.White metal grommets, cotton lacing and 1/4" self bias binging. The final waist size of the corset is 24" with a gap it is a comfortable 2-3" reduction. Front metal busk with 1/2 Flat steel underbusk. Grommets area has two 1/4" flat steels. The rest of the corset has 1/4" spiral bones; 12 total.

The pattern was made by combining my regency stays pattern, and Simplicity 2890 (The Gored Civil War one) I based the shape off looking at surviving examples, otherwise I don't really have documentation for level of historical accuracy. It is going to be worn under a 1840's dress I plan to make this year.

Since I am going to try and include this piece in a photo-shoot I have planned for Friday, I only got some photos on my dress form for now. Which might actually be better for seeing all the small details. I have also posted links to my LJ where I have pictures of the quilting process for those interested. Collapse )
  • morgahn

Finished TV110


My corset is finally finished! Although, I do still have some flossing to do, which will happen as I have time, the structure is finished, boned, and edged. I used a mixture of flats and spiral bones on the corset. At center back I have 1/2″ flats then size 00 grommets and then 1/4″ flats. On either side of the busk I also have 1/2″ flats. All of the other seams and additional bones are 1/4″ spirals. I found that using the 1/2″ kept the CB bones from twisting unlike when I used 1/4″ and the 1/2″ bones at CF stabilized the busk as it was a bit floppy. The combination is DD-D (bust) D (waist) F (hip) for panels 1-3 and B (bust) D (waist) F (hip) for panels 4-6. 

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  • izodiea

Simplicity 2890, formerly 7215- 24" Waist


Civil War Corset:
I finished doing the last little bits of flossing on this corset, made from Simplicity 2890, formerly 7215. I originally started this as a "practice" piece before I cut into some brocade; but it has turned out so well I have decided to sell it!

I have included under the cut all relevant measurements as well as a "making of" diary of sorts. The gussets on this corset scared me… Collapse )

X-posted to my own Journal, Corsetmakers and Corsetry

"Black-and-Yellow Flossed Corset" adaptation

A while back, I thought that I would adapt the "Black-and-Yellow Flossed Corset" from Jill Salen's book.  It was a long time in coming due to other projects, but I finally finished it and managed to get some pictures taken.  I think that's always the difficult part...getting the pics after you're done!  Normally I'm just ready to send it off and be finished with it.  Anyway, since this was an adaption to see how the pattern worked, I made it up for me instead of a client.  I apologize that I don't have a picture of the back on a model. 

Anyway, it's staying pretty true to the original design, though with the necessary alterations to make it work on a modern woman!  It has interior boning to supplement the external boning.  I tend to like a little bit more steel than was originally used.  I've included construction details, etc. in the cut, but more information about this corset can be found at my non-lj blog starting with this entry at The Bad Button.

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