volutelady (volutelady) wrote in corsetmakers,

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Again one of those "how do you make your seams" post ... ;-)


Those last times, I really have thought a lot about the best way to construct a corset, particularly the numerous ways of making the seams.

Some posts have already been made about the subject, for example : http://www.livejournal.com/community/corsetmakers/499000.html http://www.livejournal.com/community/corsetmakers/464730.html

But I never found any sketch describing one method: the one I spontaneously used for all my first corsets... Since that time, I've constantly been trying other ways, like the "sandwich method" described in, for example, "The basics of corset building" by Linda Sparks from Farthingales (sewing separately two layers, the lining and the shell, and assembling them at the busk then behind), etc. But no method gave me entire satisfaction, and I'm inclined to return to my first method.

So what is the problem? Well, that no one (to my knowledge) ever made a drawing of that kind of seams here, which makes me think it must be unefficient or stupid.

So what do you think about it? :

Step 1 : sew the seam allowance (the front/busk would be on the left, the lacing on the right)

Note : a waistband, that I forgot to draw, is inserted very easily between fashion farbic and lining, thus provoking no itching by direct contact with the skin - but it could be as easily sewn after, against the skin, while sewing additional bone casing inside.

Step 2 : fold and sew boning channels

This is what a "complete" corset would look like with this method, with busk and grommets inserted (of course it is very simplified: it would be only three pieces by side!). And of course too, the fabrics come very flat and always in touch, not with that huge space between them, that was only necessary to make the drawing clear! ;-)

To avoid wrinkles, the seam allowances can be clipped without really weakening the boning channel, if not too close of the seam line.

It could look bulky, but really is not that much compared to almost every other methods, for example the one of Linda Sparks which gives almost the same bulk :

I really can't see why it should be weak, and don't think it's particularly bulky (every corset seam is bulky, just think about turn lap seam); at least, in the corsets I made that way, the bulk is really not that frightening. You can see more details in that post on my LJ (of course the only one I photographied entirely WAS made with three quite bulky layers, so it IS bulkier than most of my corsets...):


So WHAT is the problem with it?

Because there MUST be one since, as it is a quite quick method, that always seemed efficient to me, it SHOULD by used by many... Or maybe it is, but I never saw it described.

Please open my eyes! ;-)

Tags: advice|beginner faq, construction|seams
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