Made a mock up for my first corset making venture (under-bust) need some adjusting/fitting the mock.
So, I'll introduce myself first as it is my first call to arms so to say.
I've been sewing on and off since high-school and college where i took fashion tech, did nothing for a few years due to machine access and then have gone all out in the last year making all kinds of things. I'm Autistic/Dyspraxic so forgive me if i misunderstand you from time to time. I've been trying in getting my skills somewhat surpassed from my old understanding and i'm happy with the improvements. These range from undies to dresses, jumpsuits using all kinds of materials. I've been able to make and adjust some of my own patterns for these things rather than buying patterns after some practice but i feel these are still somewhat more basic than the skills seen on here by many of you. I'm always learning.
I find those things easy now but adjusting a corset pattern is something else and a little scary and confusing with information that seems conflicting from just reading so I thought some questions might be best!
I've made a Toile using calico — medium to heavy weight, I've been fairly accurate in my sewing and measuring from the standard pattern, i'm directly in between two sizes given, and although i'm happy with the waist reduction (about 2 inches) not being huge for my first corset as per advice there is some gaping at the top around under the bust line and the bottom side. I admit the waist tape ended up being a tiny bit not spread out with the fabric underneath so nice but it was on the waistline intended
As you can see I've marked up how much I want to reduce it by getting my parner to help with pinching and penning (his is the pink on the pics, the pencil is just me thinking after measuring) but now I've no idea which panels and how much by per I should be reducing them, and advice on making sure it all lines up still. Especially the waist stays aligned.
I've included a link with pictures of my pattern, marking where i think the reductions might smartly be made as a guess (I want to conserve nice lines and shape factoring my body shape) along with my Toile and myself wearing it.
Any critique in my entire process welcomed, i'm a complete corset rookie! Ask me anything that'll help you answer my conundrum.
I feel like at the top it needs to come in by 1 cm (0.39 inch) give or take a mm or two per side, and at the bottom back about 2.5 cm (1 inch) per side. I know if i take it out of one piece its going to ruin the shape, what is my best move?
Also I've noticed some of the bones need to be longer past the first and second set of bones that can be seen. These were part of a kit and against the pattern they seem to fit though should i shorten these manually at the time and get some new cap ends or lengthen the sides and back a tad at the top to fit? Also the final will include a busk, these seem to make little difference to the front gape or back when i tape these into my Toile. The white one poking out on the last pic does fit the channel just that one i admit was 1mm too wide.