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02 July 2017 @ 06:45 pm
Bust Support, back fat, and waist tape help  
Hello,
I'm having trouble with making corsets that support the bust. I have no photos to show, so I tried to illustrate what I think is happening. As the corset cinches in the waist, fat and flesh are displaced upwards to the underbust. This roll of fat pushes the corset away from the body, leaving a gap between the underbust and the corset and resulting in no support for the bust. My friend's corset I made for her wedding had that problem, and we found that lacing the corset tighter allowed for the support, but resulted in a lot of back-fat. This is all from self-drafted patterns, as I am not at a place where I can purchase any. Being male, I have limited knowledge of bust support and cannot practice/test on myself as I lack endowment in the bust area, so any insight and/or recommendations are very greatly appreciated!



Another issue I have is the waist tape. Even when I use coutil (purchased from Britex in San Francisco, if that matters) I can see the waist tape indentations on the outside of the corset. It seems as though the fabric is trying to stretch at the waist but the waist tape is not allowing it to at that area, so you see the indentation. Granted, I've only ever tried making single-layered corsets, or double layer (fashion + strength fabric). Is there any way to combat this as well?

Thank you very much.
 
 
 
khoc on July 14th, 2017 01:43 am (UTC)
Haha! I'm glad I'm not the only one! I wish there were classes on drafting a corset pattern (not from scale or photocopies, but actual pattern drafting), and all fit issues and how to fix them. I know Foundation's Revealed has a tutorial, but I haven't had much success with it, the ones I draft fro scratch seem to work better initially than the pattern I get from the tutorial, but that might just be me.

How do I access your friend list? I can't seem to click the button, haha.

It is pretty frustrating and challenging for me. I'm more into making structured garments, so corsets are just another step for me. It also doesn't help that I don't have a dress form... haha Thankfully I have a couple friends to help me learn!
GeminiWenchgeminiwench on July 14th, 2017 05:30 am (UTC)
I got into corsets through costuming, especially period costuming and fantasy costuming where corsets are pretty crucial. So that is where a lot of my info comes from. I can offer you some tips like:

Laughing Moon Patterns
(Instructional DVD on sewing corsets SOLD HERE!!)

Janet Arnold books
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janet_Arnold
are SO INTERESTING! I won't link to amazon, but you can find them through most good used book retailers.

I like the youtube tutorials for *small* technical things but not for over all processes. Want to learn french seams, or use a ruffling-foot, or make smooth welted pockets, YOUTUBE IS AWESOME. So if you go with a specific question, there are good vids. Overall corset process vids/series I am less impressed.

I added you to my friends list, if that helps?

I've used patterns (and have a purchased pattern collection) but I prefer drafting my own, and just... started doing that, because that way I got WHAT I WANTED. As time went on my mistakes are smaller and smaller... but, I still make them ALL THE TIME. I am not a perfectionist, though. My patterns come out good, but my technical sewing is subpar. :/
khoc on July 14th, 2017 06:07 am (UTC)
My sewing accuracy and skill isn't where I want them to be either. I do use youtube for things I forget or don't know. It really is fantastic.

I do want to get to the point where I can make reliable self drafted patterns. Do they have corset pattern drafting books?
GeminiWenchgeminiwench on July 14th, 2017 06:35 am (UTC)
I really appreciate that I can sit on a couch, staring at a bolt of fabric, and then attack it with my measuring tape, pins, and a piece of chalk and MAKE IT HAPPEN by myself.
I *love* that feeling.

I just do the measurements,
do the math, and know how garment pieces (piecing) work along different fashion rules/styles historically and learn my fabrics strengths/weaknesses.

Absolutely there are corset patterning books, but I'm not well versed in what's available, so my recommendation wouldn't be worth much.

I think the big deal is getting better at *technically* sewing and understanding fit, because THAT is what making a corset, tests. Which is probably why I love/hate them!
khoc on July 19th, 2017 02:57 pm (UTC)
I would love to be brave enough to do that! I have a long way to go before then though. And you're right, technical sewing and fit is the majority of the battle in sewing clothing.