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02 July 2017 @ 06:45 pm
Bust Support, back fat, and waist tape help  
I'm having trouble with making corsets that support the bust. I have no photos to show, so I tried to illustrate what I think is happening. As the corset cinches in the waist, fat and flesh are displaced upwards to the underbust. This roll of fat pushes the corset away from the body, leaving a gap between the underbust and the corset and resulting in no support for the bust. My friend's corset I made for her wedding had that problem, and we found that lacing the corset tighter allowed for the support, but resulted in a lot of back-fat. This is all from self-drafted patterns, as I am not at a place where I can purchase any. Being male, I have limited knowledge of bust support and cannot practice/test on myself as I lack endowment in the bust area, so any insight and/or recommendations are very greatly appreciated!

Another issue I have is the waist tape. Even when I use coutil (purchased from Britex in San Francisco, if that matters) I can see the waist tape indentations on the outside of the corset. It seems as though the fabric is trying to stretch at the waist but the waist tape is not allowing it to at that area, so you see the indentation. Granted, I've only ever tried making single-layered corsets, or double layer (fashion + strength fabric). Is there any way to combat this as well?

Thank you very much.
GeminiWenchgeminiwench on July 8th, 2017 02:38 am (UTC)
Long busks travel over the breasts... however, if a woman has large breasts they have trouble "taking the curve" when it comes to following from underbust to overbust... hence "the gap" that breasts may slouch into. Bras with underwires, for instance, are supposed to ride the ribcage and the front ends are supposed to sit *against* the skin at the breastbone...however most women do not wear bras that fit, and so the underwires ride OUT from the body in front, which makes large breasts "pool" in the cups instead of being supported by the cups.

The busk runs/works on a similar principal. Supporting those kittens in the FRONT is half the battle! (Support from the under and sides is the OTHER half of the battle) How to keep them from slouching/slumping/slipping down or being forced into a uni-boob position. A lot of people (and corsets) go for the overboob position of the busk, but really, ideally, the top of the busk should fit against the breastbone, with the tension on the cups coming from the back lacing. This ensures that there is NOWHERE for the breasts to go... but up.