Pioghad (mistressmagpie) wrote in corsetmakers,

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Mockup, with bust and hip fitting questions

(Pardon all the fluff... I wasn't confident in my drafting, so I cut reeeeally wide seam allowances. And that wrinkle across the center front panel? I did a toe touch in this thing. It's ridiculously comfy.)

I've my very first mockup fitted together! I'm still in love with the hip curve and the side swoop... They're just as lovely as I was hoping they'd be. I boned it in 1/2" Zipties, since I wasn't sure if I had the height right or not and didn't want to waste my good boning. When I first laced it up, the fit over the hips, belly, and back was perfectly smooth with no pooch overhanging the underarm swoosh. The problems I saw were ones I'd half expected. The front of the corset from the top to about 2" above the waist gaped badly. I hadn't altered it for my small chest, figuring that it would be easier to do that alteration in fabric than in paper. I took off about 4" total from the bust out of the front 2 seams on either side between that first try-on and taking these pictures. The top line across the bust was too low as well, coming in about a centimeter below my nipples.

Since things were comfy, I wore it around for a while to see how it would settle, if it would twist or make any hotspots with motion and extended wear. I noticed that it has a tendency to ride up slightly, which while making the top line land in the right place (about an inch higher than previously), it tightens the fabric around my ribs in a way I'm not too fond of and puts pressure on my back, just above the waist on either side of the spine, especially when I'm sitting. It also developed a wrinkle above the hip, at waist height on the two side panels. I'm assuming at least part of that wrinkling is the adhesive on my masking tape not putting up with the extended wear and umpteen dressings and undressings, but I think part of it may be in the fit.

I think the hip needs more room at the top of the curve, especially at the rear seam. Am I correct, or does someone see a problem elsewhere that could be making this effect? As for the bust, I'm assuming I need to raise it slightly or put a very stiff, tall trimming on it, as well as take in more fabric. Where should I take it from, though? I really don't want to end up with the center front and the two flanking pieces perfectly rectangular, and I'm afraid they will be if I take out enough to give me actual bust support.

Click on any of the images for a larger view.  The line of stitches around the waist mark the waistline I drafted for.

FrontRight side
BackRight side
I basted down the rear seam allowances, because I didn't think I'd have to do any alterations there and they were making it hard to see the lines or the corset. I can do the same for the front allowances if anyone thinks that would help them work out what's going on here. :)

My fingertip corresponds to the point of my breast. It's hard to see the gaping in this picture, but the perspective is the key: in real life, my nipple is right in the middle of the second panel, and in line with the boning you can see just off my fingertip.

Here's those hip wrinkles from the front. I can make them go away for a bit if I yank the fabric down and press it into the tape, but the fabric creeps back up in a few minutes...

ETA: Almost forgot! Those of you with more experience than I: is the angle at the waist too sharp? Is a 1" wide waist tape going to make weird bulging happen? (You know what I mean... when the fabric has more room than the waist tape does at top and bottom, so the corset gets two big bulging lines all the way around the middle...)

And the last post I made in this comm about this corset is here. More of may prattling about this project is in my journal, if anyone wants more information about the intervening steps.
Tags: advice|fitting help, advice|toile mockup muslin, drafting|altering based on toile, miscellaneous|midbust, pattern|historical source, timeline|1820-1900 victorian corset

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