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09 June 2010 @ 05:30 pm
wrinkle free boning channels  
I'm trying to find out how to make wrinkle-free boning channels. In some fabrics no wrinkles show but on satins and such this really is an issue. The channels can be perfect when laid flat, but when they are bent (just as on the corset), wrinkles appear.

The method I find the best so far is to do tubes out of coutil flatlined to the fashion fabric. The fashion fabric is cut on the bias, the coutil on the straight grain, When flatlining, I make sure the fashion fabric is a little bit taut.
Then I cut the seam allowance, put a bias pressing bar inside (I use 9mm width) and press the seams open, centering the seam.

But still, the channels aren't absolutely wrinkle free, but they look much better than with the fashion fabric cut on the straight grain.
Do you know any more tricks?
 
 
 
MsToriJonesmstorijones on June 9th, 2010 04:07 pm (UTC)
the method you list is what I was going to suggest
delirium71delirium71 on June 9th, 2010 04:54 pm (UTC)
That's what I do and they're smooth for me. What type of satin is causing the problem?
mrpet: curiousmrpet on June 9th, 2010 07:06 pm (UTC)
If I am using spiral boning I cut the bones a 1/2" too long for the channel and compress them while inserting. The preload on the spring keeps the fabric under tension at all times. This really helped me keep things smooth and flat. It also means that the bone is tight in the channel and won't move around and saw through the ends of the channels. It also means that the ends of the channels need to be strong just like the ends of a bridge.
sartorbohemiasartorbohemia on June 9th, 2010 07:16 pm (UTC)
this is very interesting. I read about this method in some antique book about sewing, but I never tried it out, I was too afraid the bone would tend to break through.
1/2" too long? Are you sure? How do you secure the bone in place, or how do you attach the binding? Only by hand? Doesn't it result in uneven edges, the bone causing the edge to protrude?
araneablackaraneablack on June 10th, 2010 02:41 pm (UTC)
I use the same method but I cut the fashion fabric on bias and infuse it with very thin infusing "lining" that is used for stabilizing silks on straight grain. I cut coutil on straight grain too. It ends up really smooth even on some "wild" curves.
Sorry for not knowing the exact name of the fabric I use for stabilizing the fashion fabric but English is not my native tongue and Croatian name would be no use to you :P
I am a bit skeptical about that method with forcing too long spiral steels in a boning channel but I am curious about it :)