Lehni (lehni) wrote in corsetmakers,

Overbust WIP - wrinkles


I'm currently working on the overbust to go with my commitment ceremony dress. I previously received much needed advice on my last version. This version was made up very quickly using one layer of cotton drill, spiral steel boning everywhere except centre back/front and waist tape. I folded the seams over to one side and sewed them down to make boning channels for ease of construction (except for two bones in the front where I used tape to make channels).


I'm much happier with the shape than before, but I think I will minimise the waist reduction at the front and side panels (to increase the overall waist size by about 3-4cm). At the moment it gives me about 8-10cm reduction and I think it looks too period/waspy for the occasion. I might add a little bit to the hips as well as it needs to go over both the underskirt as shown and a pleated overskirt.

As per the advice from the comments in my last post, I used tape in the front seams to reduce stretching, clipped a lot more and pressed. My wrinkle problem is less of an issue (especially after I added another bone in the front) but I'm still getting some horizontal wrinkles around the bottom and around the bust curve. Will these be minimised when I make the actual corset? (I intend to make it out of four layers - lining, two strength layers, and fashion fabric).




FYI, the dress WIP history:

  1. Train 1
  2. Skirt 1
  3. Skirt 2
  4. Bodice 1

Tags: advice|construction, construction|in progress pix
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