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11 April 2009 @ 06:59 pm
Overbust WIP - wrinkles  

I'm currently working on the overbust to go with my commitment ceremony dress. I previously received much needed advice on my last version. This version was made up very quickly using one layer of cotton drill, spiral steel boning everywhere except centre back/front and waist tape. I folded the seams over to one side and sewed them down to make boning channels for ease of construction (except for two bones in the front where I used tape to make channels).


I'm much happier with the shape than before, but I think I will minimise the waist reduction at the front and side panels (to increase the overall waist size by about 3-4cm). At the moment it gives me about 8-10cm reduction and I think it looks too period/waspy for the occasion. I might add a little bit to the hips as well as it needs to go over both the underskirt as shown and a pleated overskirt.

As per the advice from the comments in my last post, I used tape in the front seams to reduce stretching, clipped a lot more and pressed. My wrinkle problem is less of an issue (especially after I added another bone in the front) but I'm still getting some horizontal wrinkles around the bottom and around the bust curve. Will these be minimised when I make the actual corset? (I intend to make it out of four layers - lining, two strength layers, and fashion fabric).




FYI, the dress WIP history:

  1. Train 1
  2. Skirt 1
  3. Skirt 2
  4. Bodice 1

eleanor88 on April 11th, 2009 10:00 am (UTC)
I love the shape. I think you will be able to minimise some of the wrinkles by making that third panel narrower at the hip, and adding what you take away onto either the second or fourth panel. I find it helps, if the shape of the panels at the front is important to the final look you can add visual boning channels to give the appearence of a seam... if that makes any sense. I also find when making my own patterns that if there is too much curve over the hip a few wrinkles appear there too.

Edited at 2009-04-11 10:01 am (UTC)
Lehni: blue lolilehni on April 14th, 2009 11:27 am (UTC)
Thank you! That does make sense. I probably haven't boned the part over the hip enough either.
Taamartaamar on April 11th, 2009 05:10 pm (UTC)
Oh, what a fantastic shape!

For a mock-up with one layer of drill that looks amazingly smooth, the wrinkles around the bottom look like stress-wrinkles to me and should be fine in the final corset... though the ones up by the sleeve look like you have a little bit of excess length on the front panel by the bust seam.That may be something you can draft to correct, or it may be something that sorts itself out with the stiffer materials.
Lehni: blue lolilehni on April 14th, 2009 11:27 am (UTC)
Thank you! I'm hoping it will go away o.o The finished one will have more bones too which might help!
darklabrynth on April 12th, 2009 03:59 am (UTC)
I can't help you with the sewing advice, cause as someone else so eloquently put it, I sew like a drunk. But that's got fantastic shape to it. can't wait to see the finished version.
dip_thongdip_thong on April 12th, 2009 08:30 pm (UTC)
Sweet, someone actually remembers my colorful opinion of my sewing abilities.
Erinnatane on April 12th, 2009 10:20 pm (UTC)
that's hilarious...
darklabrynth on April 12th, 2009 11:57 pm (UTC)
Seriously, it was the best description EVER of my sewing abilities. I can do smaller things that don't require it to be exact, but a corset? Pft. Don't I wish.
Lehni: blue lolilehni on April 14th, 2009 11:28 am (UTC)
Thank you! I'll definitely post the finished one here (probably not until September when we have our photo shoots :)
Nikkimystico_tala on April 12th, 2009 01:20 pm (UTC)
Oh wow, that is going to look stunning!
Lehni: blue lolilehni on April 14th, 2009 11:28 am (UTC)
Thank you!
kittenmintkittenmint on April 13th, 2009 01:35 pm (UTC)
I don't have any help for the corset, but I looked over the pics of the skirt and top and it is -stunning-. I can't wait to see this complete, pressed, steamed, and with the hair and makeup! You will be absolutely drop-dead gorgeous! Please show us when it is all done!! Seeing the garment that goes over the corset is a big part of corsetry, even if you don't -see- the corset in the finished production.
Lehni: blue lolilehni on April 14th, 2009 11:29 am (UTC)
Thank you very much! I will definitely post the finished one here (ceremony isn't til September though so won't be until after that). Actually this will be my 'outer' wear as well - I'm not sure if I could make both a corset and a boned bodice in the time frame. Hopefully it will work out though :)