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20 June 2008 @ 12:36 am
Just doing my research.  
Okay, it's probably going to be a while before I have the time/money to make it, but I like to get things researched ahead of time.

I'm looking for a store bought pattern, since I'm not quite sure how to draft my own. Preferably, I'd like to get a bit more of an hourglass shape, and better support than a bra, while wearing it. Only problem is, I'm huge. I've gone through the memories and the archives, but it seems that most of the conversation has been about corsetry for fashion and not so much as a supportive undergarment. I have a couple off-the-shelf ones (though they're closer to a conical shape than hourglass), and while they work wonders in supporting my bosom, they're short around the bottom, which makes them a bit uncomfortable.

Going by the measurement suggestions given in the memories, would you be so kind as to suggest a pattern that would possibly be able to fit?

Bra Cup Size: DD (I'm sure that's not right, but it's hard to find a bra that fits well)
Horizontal Measurements (around):
Around your chest, above your breasts: 41
Around your chest, at the full of your breasts: 47
Around your rib cage, just under bra line: 38
Around your waist, midway between top of hip bone and bottom of ribcage: 38
Around the top of hip bone: 44
Around mid hip bone: 47

Vertical Measurements (up and down):
In the front, start at the center waist and measure to your bra line: 6
At the same point, measure from your center waist to the bottom of your stomach: 8
On your side, measure from the center waist position to the bottom of your bra line: 5.5
And again, measure from your side waist to the middle of your hip: 7
We will do the same in the back, waist to bottom of bra line: 9
And again in the back, waist to top of bum: 7.5
abitofanenigmaabitofanenigma on June 20th, 2008 09:14 am (UTC)
There have been plenty of discussion on corsets for plus sizes, both in body and in bust sizes.

Like this for example:


There should be more in the memories. If you have a significantly large bust then, as bats_meow said, the laughing moon would be great because it has bust gussets that you can adjust. Unfortunately you're not going to find a huge deal of information in the archives on fitting and shaping for larger sizes - or even most sizes (it's construction mostly), that only comes with experience and can vary from body to body. Loads of Mock-ups...LOOOAADS of mock ups. :D
gk_wheatcroftgk_wheatcroft on June 20th, 2008 10:16 am (UTC)
A third vote for the Laughing Moon 100 pattern. The Silverado view has bust gores so you can easily fit for alrger cup sizes and it goes up to a 40" waist and 48" bust, so no problem with it being large enough. As has been said though, do plenty of mockups to ensure a good fit, as larger sizes can sometimes be tricky to fit. But we're all happy to help if you encounter any problems! Good luck!
ardent_firesongardent_firesong on June 20th, 2008 01:37 pm (UTC)
Fourth vote for Laughing Moon. You're measurements are similar to mine, except I'm only a D cup. (Which, fair warning, if you do get that one, go for a cup size smaller than you usually wear. The D in my mockup was WAY too big.) I find mine comfortable and very supportive; you'll have excellent posture, as well :P

And you're not huge, my dear. Trust me.
Meauxmeaux30 on June 20th, 2008 02:39 pm (UTC)
ALhtough I like the Laughing Moon corset, for true hourglas shape without "shelf boobs" I recomend the Truly Victorian corset - PLUS they have FANTASTIC customer support and a help board - www.trulyvictorian.com.

I am a DD cup and do not like the bust gores in the Laughing Moon pattern - I thought it gave me shelf boobs and the other view is a really nice corset but it is a little straighter through the waist so not as hourglassey. I do love this corset with a blouse and a pencil skirt though!

Truly Victorian are my all time favorite victorian clothin patterns, and Heather who owns the site responds to questions about fit and everything. LOVE them! I have used several of her patterns to modify for neo-victorian/club wear stuff.
aradiadianearadiadiane on June 20th, 2008 07:13 pm (UTC)
Bras as well as corsets
From the Big 4 companies, I like the McCall's 3609. I have very similar measurements to what you posted, and I've found this to be a very supportive, very comfortable corset. My first attempt came out too short on top (I, having not found this community at the point I made the corset, did not make the recommended Loads of Mock Ups. In fact, I didn't make any.) and because of that does give me quite an interesting bust, namely in that I cannot raise my arms very high without danger of what one of my friends terms 'northern exposure'. I haven't tried any of the Lauhing Moon or Truly Victorian, but if you want something you can pick up at your local chain store, that may work for you. I don't know about the hourglass shaping on the majority of people, but it certainly worked for me.

As far as bras that fit, try going somewhere that doesn't consider DD to be the maximum breast size. Places like Sears, Penny's, and Victoria's Secret don't size any higher, and they will ALWAYS tell you that DD is the size you need if you're large. If you can get to a Lane Bryant, especially one with a Cacique (LB lingerie line sometimes has their own attached store) they can help you find a better size and fit. You may have to order the bras online, but you can take them into the store for a fitting and return what doesn't work for you. It's more of a pain than buying straight from the store, but it's such a relief to have good support and comfort! Also keep in mind that sometimes your cup size will vary not only by brand, but also by style of the bra. I wear an F or G in some styles and a DDD in others. Hope this helps!

aradiadianearadiadiane on June 20th, 2008 07:15 pm (UTC)
Re: Bras as well as corsets
P.S. The Cacique/Lane Bryant bras aren't terribly expensive, either, and they hold up longer than other things I've tried. I think I paid about $30 per bra, but they frequently have buy-one-get-one discount sales, which lowers the price considerably. Since they last longer and don't stretch out as much, it's well worth a few extra dollars initially!
ornithoptercatornithoptercat on June 20th, 2008 09:42 pm (UTC)
Re: Bras as well as corsets
DDD and F are the same size. So you're only varying by one. While it may be the style/brand that's making the difference - demis are sometimes cut too low so you have to go up and overtighten the straps to get any coverage - it may also be related to hormones. A lot of women go up a cup size as part of PMS.
aradiadianearadiadiane on June 22nd, 2008 03:28 am (UTC)
Re: Bras as well as corsets
I tried both DDD and F in two of the same styles at Cacique, so their sizes may actually be two different sizes. I know most places that isn't the case. I also tried both styles on the same day. THis is the style I need a DDD in- http://www.lanebryant.com/pagebuilder/lane_bryant_product_page?item=7691850&pagesize=3 and this is the style I have an F in- http://www.lanebryant.com/pagebuilder/lane_bryant_product_page?item=7175185&pagesize=3.

It's worth a look if there's a store near you, at any rate.
Michael James della Passagliamdellapassaglia on June 21st, 2008 01:49 pm (UTC)
Re: Bras as well as corsets
Cacique isn't always accurate, either... my wife was told she was a 46DDD, but can easily wear 44DDD. But they're better than most.
ornithoptercatornithoptercat on June 20th, 2008 09:38 pm (UTC)
Bra sizing
Your correct bra size is most likely a 44D, and next most likely is either a 42DD or a 44C. (BAND: Add 5 to underbust; if you get an odd number round up, but try down if that's too loose. CUP: subtract band from bust; 1" = A, 2" = B, etc; DD is the same as E, DDD is the same as F.)

For your size, you should look for one with a back closure, 3 hook and eyes tall - anything less is unlikely to provide good enough support. Back closure is better anyway because you can usually adjust an inch up or down - especially important with an in-between size. The band should sit at the same height across your back as in front (horizontal), feel comfortable, and not ride up in front. Once you get the right band size, THEN pick the cup size that neither gaps at the top nor creates "double-boob" - the cup size, as noted above, is relative to the band size! If you have to overtighten the straps (so they cut into your shoulders) to keep it from gapping, go to the next cup down and/or try one with wider straps. Every brand fits a little differently; Victoria's Secret, in particular, tends to always be about half a cup size bigger than any of the ones you can get in department stores.
steam_pirate on June 24th, 2008 01:08 am (UTC)
Re: Bra sizing
I've currently got a 42DD, but the band tends to ride up in the back. I'm not quite sure what that means, but it's somewhat annoying at times.

trip_tychtrip_tych on June 21st, 2008 02:37 am (UTC)
Hey we have very similar measurements! Your hips are slightly larger than mine. Anyway, I've been working on the Truly Victorian 110 pattern and found that it's pretty awesome. I definitely recommend it. The instructions are very clear and it is very easy to adjust the pattern. All sizes are included with the pattern and what I did was take it to Staples and make a couple photocopies of each piece. That way, I can adjust the pattern and cut it out without ruining the master (which I have definitely needed to do).