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28 March 2017 @ 05:19 pm
Need help finding a custom corsetier  
I'm looking for someone who can create a custom corset for me, however what I want is a little unusual. I have scoliosis and corsets have helped with pain relief a lot in the past. I've recently come into a little bit of money and would love to find someone who can create at least one, but possibly up to 4 corsets for me. They would sort of fill the role of a back brace, although I'm not looking for something that has the same medical re-shaping stuff that a scoliosis back brace has. I would like something that is an overbust and can be worn under clothes (so no frills etc). I'd like it to basically just be a tube that provides somewhat equal support all over, rather than something that cinches in the waist like a victorian corset or similar does. Having something where the lower stomach is supported/brought in might be useful if that's possible. It might be useful with the way my back is shaped, but is certainly not necessary. I've thought about trying to make my own corset to meet this criteria since it's so different than what most corsetiers seem to make, but I'm not very confident in my ability to sit in front of a sewing machine/table for the length of time it would take to create. It would probably take me a year if I tried to do it on my own given how often I need to change position etc. Please ask if I've not been clear enough and you'd like more information about the type of design I have in my head.

Does anyone know of someone who might be comfortable making something like this? I've e-mailed a few corsetiers, but have not had any response yet. My guess is that there are a couple of factors working against me 1) mentioning scoliosis often makes people nervous 2) maybe they don't have time to devote to something so unique?

I would be really grateful for any suggestions! Thanks in advance!
 
 
 
Emma Dobbs on March 29th, 2017 10:34 am (UTC)
Are you thinking tubular like a Regency style corset or an Elizabethan style corset or something quite different?
crazywoollady on March 29th, 2017 12:49 pm (UTC)
Sorry, I guess my post wasn't very clear. I don't mean that I want the end shape to be tubular. I mean that I want something that is not going to provide much body shaping, but rather follow the shape my body already is. That would have the end result of providing somewhat even support everywhere without trying to alter the shape of my body. Something similar to the old maternity corsets would actually be ideal, but those seem to be harder to make. My torso is kind of an apple shape with a fairly large belly. My back curves out towards my stomach at the bottom and to the right side just under my shoulder blades. This means my internal organs are already shifted around quite a bit so I don't want something that cinches in the waist. However, I have found that even with victorian style corsets that only have about a 2" waist reduction the increased support allows me to stand so much straighter that my internal organs actually have more space and I'm much more comfortable over all. If I could find a way to get rid of that waist reduction and instead have a similar feeling lower and in the front (so lower abdomen where a pot belly would stick out) that would be wonderful. Ideally I'd like to find a way to support the lower abdomen, possibly even pushing it upwards. I don't like the idea of a spoon busk though, so have thought adding additional boning in a v shape or something similar might do the trick. Allowing extra space in the waist area for the extra stuff being moved upwards, and then either coming in again around the rib cage or allowing extra space there again, depending on how things actually end up fitting. I'm not looking to alter the shape of my body when the corset is worn, rather I'm looking for something that will provide support all over my torso, ideally with more support coming from the lower abdomen area. I am more concerned with how it feels than how it looks, but I do think the old maternity corsets are close to what I'm after. The reason I'd like an overbust is because I want the corset to go up fairly high in the back to provide support for my higher curve. Basically, the most important factors are that it goes roughly from shoulder blades to hip and doesn't cinch in the waist. If the end result is a tubular shape that's fine, if the end result is a triangle or a square that's fine too. Hope that makes sense.

If I were going to attempt to make my own corset I would start with a mock up that's my exact measurements all over (no reduction anywhere), but allowing for a gap in the back of roughly 2-3 inches. For the mock up I would probably lace the top and bottom separately and determine how much (if any) I wanted to take in from the bottom section and how much (if any) I wanted to add to the top section. If I took anything out of the bottom half (waist down) it would only be from the front panels that cover the fleshy part of the abdomen. How much would obviously depend on how many panels and how it fit, but I would not want the reduction to be wider than the front of my hip bones. I'm anticipating that if a reduction was needed there an increase would need to be made at the waist, and possibly higher as well, depending on how much flesh was moved around and how my body reacted. I would then make a second mock up with the new measurements and lace it properly. I would treat this second mock up the same way that most people treat a first mock up, looking for small fit adjustments and things like that, but expecting it to be fairly close to what the end result would be. I might even make the second mock up out of coutil. Part of what is appealing about the old maternity corsets is the ability to make lots of adjustments around the stomach and hips. I've never worn one of those, but I suspect that might be helpful so that I can change the fit on an as needed basis depending on how my body is feeling that day. The downside would be that it's obviously harder to hide under clothes and might end up providing less support. If I were going to make 2 styles of corsets, one would be like the old maternity corsets and one would be what I've tried to describe above.
crazywoollady on March 29th, 2017 01:01 pm (UTC)
The camp style maternity corsets look the most comfortable out of anything I've seen if that's helpful at all
GeminiWenchgeminiwench on March 29th, 2017 07:38 pm (UTC)
I would look into "training" or "daily wear" corsetiers. You can find them in any wasping community. Although you don't plan to use corsets to attain a wasp-waist (displaced organs and all) those are the only other non-medical corset makers who make long-wear corsets to wear all day, everyday, which are made to fit under clothes. Good luck!
crazywoollady on March 31st, 2017 02:25 pm (UTC)
Thank you for the suggestions! I'm currently in the UK, but I have family near San Francisco and could potentially see Dark Garden for fittings the next time I visit. I will contact them to see what they can do. Thanks!

My son has offered to try to help me with making a corset in the meantime. He's had a look at my Corset Making book by Julia Bremble and watched some youtube videos and thinks it is worth a try. Yay me! (I think? lol) xD That said, I don't think our current sewing machine is up to the task of sewing through multiple layers of coutil. Does anyone have recommendations on a good machine to buy if we will be getting a new one anyway? Should I start another thread for that?
joysdaughterjoysdaughter on April 3rd, 2017 10:19 pm (UTC)
It might be helpful if you gave some idea of your location. For example, are you in the U.S. or the U. K.?