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14 August 2014 @ 01:48 am
Update on blue plaid corset :)  
Due to the nature of the fabric I used and the fact that the busk seam was gradually tearing in front of my eyes, I have decided to cannibalise the original for parts and redo. I will be interlining with twill and interfacing this time. I do have a couple of questions before I dive into this for real. With the busk panels, if I do a couple of layers of twill and interface the fashion fabric, will that prevent the vertical seam against the busk from ripping if I stitch through all layers or am I better off stitching through the twill and not stixhing through the fashion layer at all? Also, would it be better to cut the interfacing on the grain or on the bias?
virginiadear: LaBellavirginiadear on August 14th, 2014 07:10 pm (UTC)
"...the vertical seam against the busk"...

You're referring to a seam which is, from the outside or exterior of the corset, the fashion fabric side, at the center-front edge of the finished corset?

I believe that you would find a fold to be stronger. You'll need to make a new pattern piece for the center front (for convenience, is the reason.)
Trace your busk panel pattern piece, except the center front. At the top and bottom of the pattern piece, indicate where that seam line is at the top of the pattern piece and at the bottom of the pattern piece, and then connect those two places with some kind of line which is not solid like the cutting line and not broken in the same pattern the stitching lines are indicated.
Fold the pattern piece (the one you're copying from) very precisely on the stitching or seam line, and flop the piece in place. That folded paper edge should line up exactly with the fold line you've marked on the new pattern piece.
Now trace around the cutting line of the pattern busk panel piece to complete the making of what is essentially a mirror image of the busk panel, reflecting itself.

You'll need to transfer the markings for that fold line and for the "loops" of the busk and the studs of the busk onto the fabric piece or pieces, depending on what you use inside/under the fashion fabric or if you use nothing, and whether you need to see the markings from the "inside" of the panel/s. My personal preference is to hand-baste or to tailor-tack markings, but use what works best for you.

Now, in all this, if I've misunderstood what you were talking about, please do first forgive me and then just ignore me.
treblehearttrebleheart on August 14th, 2014 07:56 pm (UTC)
Yes, I am talking about the seam that's done on the fashion fabric side with a zipper foot. I had the idea of just doing that seam on the twill, and using the plaid as more of a shell on that panel. I'm just having trouble figuring out how the way I want to do it will work.
Annarabid_bookwyrm on August 17th, 2014 04:13 am (UTC)
I think you can do it the way you're thinking - sew the busk in to the CF panels before the rest of the corset is constructed, and just flip the fashion fabric out of the way when you stitch along the busk.

But I also don't think you need to - if you flatline the fashion fabric with something sturdier (like twill), that should be taking most of the strain. Even if the fashion fabric is caught in the seam, it shouldn't be under the same stress as it is in your un-flatlined version. I think you just can't depend on the fashion fabric alone to support the boning, but if it's flatlined it will really be the flatlining that takes the strain.
treblehearttrebleheart on August 17th, 2014 04:51 pm (UTC)
I agree. I did just go ahead and stitch through all layers for that CF seam. I pulled on it as hard as I could and it did not want to move. I think the unflatlined version was too flimsy.