countessed (countessed) wrote in corsetmakers,

My Fitting Issues (before starting my new corset)

Hello everyone! I'm new to the community, so I guess this is also my introduction. My name is Lauren, and I'm a 20 year old costumer. I'm working on a c. 1860 corset - And onwards to the fitting questions! (under a cut to save sanities)


A while back I drafted the c. 1860 corset fro Corsets and Crinoline (pg. 78) to my own measurements. I thought I was happy with the fit, but went I went back to finish it later (after time working on other projects and generally being even more of a perfectionist than I previously was) I decided that I was not happy enough with the construction and fit to keep it. Therefore, I'm scrapping and starting anew, but I'd like to get answers for what bothers me before I start to draft the pattern a second time!

The pattern was quite low-busted on me, hitting at about the nipple line (if not just below it). Possibly due to this, the corset never really seemed to constrict around my bust to lift them - the laces were tightened, but it didn't affect my bustline. I have had this problem with prior corsets, however, so I figure I keep doing the same thing wrong.

Secondly, and less annoying, is that the front of my corset "points" ou ver slightly. This seems to be a pretty common problem, and it really doesn't affect or bother me much because it i s slight, but I might as well fix it! I think it was worse during my toile and I pulled in at the side seams to bring it in. Is this the way to fix it?

The fabric also warps pretty terribly at the lacing at the waistline. When the corset is off, you can see it curve in slightly. Is this a problem due to the fabric used or the fit? I sewed this up with cotton duck, I believe. As an additional detail that may affect it, the waistline was a teensy bit too small, but shouldn't it pull me in rather than pull the fabric out regardless?

Thank you very much!
Tags: advice|fitting help, book|corsets and crinolines
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