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11 May 2015 @ 05:30 am
Its been years since I was a member of this community, but now im back trying my hand at corsets. I was wondering if anybody has tried the Simplicity 1183 pattern for an overbust corset with cups? I haven't been able to find much of anything about it online, which is what inspired me to come here and ask. 1183 Anybody? Anybody at all?
 
 
 
Dear makers:  I have been (like many of us) quiet on here for years... I do really miss this community and the format of Livejournal.  I met so many wonderful friends here.  It is nice to see the occassional post here these days. I wanted to let you all know that I am holding a beginners corsetry workshop at my studio/showroom and Chicago at the beginning of June. I hope you can make it!





 
 
 
07 April 2015 @ 12:29 am
I first posted on July 25, 2014 for fitting help. I made the changes and moved on to the real fabric shortly after. I'm thankful for the help I received on this forum! Finished in time for my wedding on September 6th.


The completed wedding dress!

The bustier tucks into the skirt and the peplums are attached in the skirt princess seams. I was duplicating the shape of a $12,000 dress I tried on, but making into separates so I could wear them apart in the future.
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30 March 2015 @ 05:45 pm
So I know this will be a storm of horrible risk and potential disaster, but I need some advice with the following idea.

I want to make a corset, for a cosplay, that has a high back and a zip front, with back lacing. So far, so good. I have a mockup, from Laughing Moon's Dore corset, that I'm beating into shape and the mockup is looking mostly good at this point. The fashion material I'm using is faux leather from Joann's, and the inner strength layer(s) is coutil from Richard the Thread. The zip isn't totally determined, but is probably a metal separating zipper, somewhat fancier (certainly more expensive!) than a YKK zipper, and the lining is probably cotton broadcloth, fused to coutil. I have two concerns, one about the zip front, and one about the material itself.

1) I decided that I wanted to add fingers across the zip and use swing latches to close the fingers. I am mostly worried about balancing the strain on the zip - at least in the mockup, the corset is pretty tight, though it doesn't provide much reduction. I can use the corsetmaking.com bone for the latches on the one side, but that's not an option for the finger side. In addition, I need to strengthen the layers so that the pleather has minimal opportunity to stretch. My thought there is that I will fuse a layer of coutil to the pleather on all panels, as well as one to the lining, and then treat it like a dual-layer corset.

However, that doesn't support the fingers very well, and I can't visualize how to get the zip in. My best thought on that at this point is to add a third layer, this time of a single layer of coutil, that is the shape of the front panel minus the fingers, and sew that to the lining side, using it to hold the zip in place. I will also run maybe a half-panel of the lining from the center front of the center front panel out to the fingers. Given that I want the fingers to lay flat against the front of the corset, that suggests that the fingers need to be somewhat tight.

Have I planned this well, or is there a better way to go about this task? Is there anything I can/should use in the fingers themselves to stiffen them further to provide support for the swing latches? Would putting the swing latches on either side of the zipper be a better option and still give room for me to use the zipper?

2) Pleather stretches. I have another corset from Richard the Thread's coutil, which has a narrow herringbone weave to it. That corset is two layers of the coutil and a layer of crap dead dinosaur for lining, with the occasional decorative thin pleather bunged on in various places. I haven't overtly noticed the corset stretching, but I did notice yesterday that I have a lovely rippled effect happening around the grommets in the lacing - I put a wide piece of the very thin pleather (not the quality I want to use for the new corset, which is substantially thicker; this was a remnant from a purse making project) at the cf and cb, both of which are laced, and it looks like the grommets are still holding, but the stress is starting to pull them - the "dip" in the curve is right at the grommet, and the "rise" in the curve is actually the original straight line of the seam. The corset appears to be otherwise undamaged, and the pleather does not appear to be coming out from under the grommets at all. So what's stretching? Should I worry that something clearly is?

And with that in mind, assuming that I have no money to spend (because I do not) and have the materials I have, how could I minimize the stretching of the pleather in the new corset? Is there a particular way to cut the coutil so as to minimise that? As mentioned above, I do plan to fuse the coutil to the pleather, but I'm not sure if that will solve the stretch problem. When I'm looking at a herringboned fabric, I'm not sure if straight-of-grain or cross-grain is actually less stretchy; my assumption is that it all behaves as though it's bias-cut.
 
 
 
24 March 2015 @ 12:30 am
Hello everyone! I've finally finished my first muslin, and I'm pretty encouraged by the results. I know I need to make some edits to the bust area to better support the "ladies". Any suggestions for editing my pattern for the next go around would be appreciated. Some stats, my natural waist right now is a 56, this corset fully closed is a 44, so I'm getting about a 10-11" reduction right now. I'm hesitant to go any further down in waist size. The muslin is made of cotton drill, and all of the boning in this corset is heavy duty zip ties. I know I'll be removing some fullness across the top line on the front, and perhaps starting the bust curve a little bit higher. Anything else I should be aware of? I feel like it's fitting well through the hips. The back feels a little bit low, but considering where it's hitting me in the underarm, I'm hesitant to make the back any taller.


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Thank you for the support and all of the information available here. I couldn't have gotten this far without this resource!
 
 
 
15 March 2015 @ 10:26 pm
Hello all. I'm new to the community but I've been lurking through the archives for a while now. Novice corset maker (I've done a few fashion/costume corsets for others) but a reasonably advanced seamstress. I'm working on my wedding dress, and need to build a corset to as a base for the bodice. I've drafted a pattern using the duct tape pattern method because between very large breasts (42 G) and being plus size, I knew I'd need to draft from scratch or extensively alter a pattern. As I divided my duct tape original into panels, I noticed something I haven't seen addressed in any of the articles or books I've seen so far.

What I'm finding is that my natural waist is several inches higher in the back than in the front, causing a definite downward slope at the side. I'm stitching my first toile right now, and I've just stayed true to the grain lines based on the waist being level.

I'm wondering now though if this might cause problems with the toile or the finished corset. Can anyone offer any advice or suggestions? I'll post photos of this first draft when I've got it done later this week.
 
 
 
24 February 2015 @ 10:48 pm
Hello! I desperately need some help. I have my wedding on the 11th of July and I'm about to buy my dress which I love, except for one part, the back:
IMG_20150217_211113

I have my first meeting with the store's seamstress on Friday but she seems reluctant to help me hide the back lace. I would prefer on this particular dress a back zipper. I tried looking through the archives here and everywhere else online, but no tips on how to turn a back lace-up into a zipper close, or how to hide the lace-up. Below you can see the front of it:
IMG_20150217_211002
 
 
 
05 February 2015 @ 04:39 pm
Hello, I'm new! I've created my first mock up, and I love the shape I'm getting from it....except from the side profile. I'm not sure how to go about getting rid of the pooch thing. Maybe I need to take in the bottom of the corset, or lower the busk, or maybe the problem is just that two thin layers of muslin aren't strong enough to hold the shape? Next time I'll try using duck instead of muslin. Any advice? =) http://s1300.photobucket.com/user/Kollina_West/slideshow/
 
 
 
09 December 2014 @ 01:01 am
So I've looked through the past entries on cutting boning but it doesn't really seem like there's any sort of consensus on favorite tools. I've used cheapy bolt cutters and do think a nicer pair with longer handles for more leverage would work better but I've the added complication of spinal damage and have the approximate hand strength of half a baby hamster which means wrenching on those cutters trying to get through 14 cuts seriously messes my neck up :/
I saw a press at one point with cutting dies a few years ago but hadn't made enough corsets to warrant a several hundred dollar machine but something similar is definitely looking pretty good....
As i said, I've read conflicting points on tin snips, namely that they aren't hard enough for hardened steel, and I mentioned bolt cutters above, anyone have any less upper body intensive cutting tools?
Thanks for your help, happy sewing!
 
 
 
11 November 2014 @ 08:18 pm
Hello everone
There seems to be almost no information on making latex corsets out there;  I'm planning to use a cheapo latexa cincher as a desgn to copy, semi trans latex and clear polyester boning sandwhiching the bonig between the two layers of 0.5mm. Can I insall the eyelets stright through the boning?  I have the S3 press and tooling.

Thanks in advance

Matthew