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22 April 2016 @ 11:03 am
Hey all, it's been a while since I posted here.  ...a long while.  I'm making my first corsets in a while and I'm getting the hip wrinkle we all know so well.  I have seen various bits of advice (some very vague) about how to fix this.  I've been told securing the boning (tight channels with tops and bottoms) or cutting the side panel off grain, and some people just say to make the curve less dramatic, but that's kind of what I'm going for here.  In fact, in the last fitting the wrinkles weren't there because I hadn't taken in that last bit at the side.  So what is everyone's favorite method of getting smooth side panels?

I added some extra boning to one side to see if it would help, and it did.  Now the wrinkles look more like something that could be fixed with roll pinning.  We'll see if I feel up to picking all those seams apart or if I'll just plan for the future.

29 January 2016 @ 12:57 am
Just letting those of you who come here know that the Oxford Conference of Corsetry programme is on the website, and is being fleshed out as we get full info back from our presenters.

Back for a second year, Barbara Pesendorfer of Royal Black will be talking us through the process of creating one of her amazing couture corsets. From inspiration, through pattern, toile, and final design and embellisment choices to the final garment! Very exciting.

We've also got Laurie Tavan teaching. Marianne Faulkner of Pop Antique teaching fashion illustration, and Caroline Woollin on CAD for corsetry. On the second day we have Colin Gilchrist of The Social Tailor, who has incredible fashion industry experiences, talking about marketing for small business, and Catherine Claverng of Kiss Me Deadly helping you with branding. There is more yet to be confirmed.

There is the opportunity to get your corset photographed by our team of amazing photographers on models including Threnody In Velvet (Morgana), Miss Deadly Red and Miss Tosh.

On top of that we have lots of networking, socialising and sharing with a drinks reception, dinner and post dinner socialising. This year we're in the amazing, ancient Merton College (where Tolkein completed Lord Of The Ring during his time as professor there).

But, the biggest stars are the other delegates. Amazing people at all stages of corset making from beginner to expert, all sharing their wonderful work and their passion. Come along and join us, we'd love to see you there.

06 November 2015 @ 05:28 pm
I looked through the archives for this pattern but didn't see anything pertaining to my question. I typically draft but wanted to try out gussets and thought this pattern was beautiful so here I am!
The (potentially really stupid) question is: on the 2nd bust bore do I continue to slash the pattern to the bottom of the hash mark or stop at the point of the gore? Here's a photo for reference:
08 October 2015 @ 09:57 pm
About a year ago, I posted asking for suggestions on a mockup. Thanks in large part to your all's help, I have finally finished my first corset.



Please pardon the uneven lacing. My husband isn't yet fully qualified as a lady's maid.

Pattern: TV 110, custom drafted to my measurements.
Fashion Layer: Dragonfly poly-brocade
Strength Layer: Cotton Duck
Liner: Quilting cotton

14 Straight steel bones, 10 spiral steel, 12" (I think) busk, 26 eyelets
21 September 2015 @ 09:59 am
I am totally new to this and to corset making. I have done a costume that had a corset type look but it was not like the real ones. So I have been reading up on corset making and have learned a lot but as of yet have not made one but I do have a couple of patterns that I would like to try. I have a lot of questions and hopefully you can help. When using a busk do you just put holes in the material to get the hooks out? Do you really need to make a mock up? and what is coutil? Also when doing grommets I saw a bone with holes in it, do you still use the grommets in it? Thanks in advance for your help.
07 September 2015 @ 01:38 pm
Im wondering if anyone has considered or actually used a method for inserting the loop side of a busk using a folded center front with buttonholes or some other opening like that, instead of a stitched center front with gaps where the loops are? Am I making sense? I dont know any other way to describe it. Im trying to reduce bulk at the seams and i thought that would remove a significant amount of bulk at center front, but i dont know how it would affect the wearing once tension is introduced. Any ideas?
11 May 2015 @ 05:30 am
Its been years since I was a member of this community, but now im back trying my hand at corsets. I was wondering if anybody has tried the Simplicity 1183 pattern for an overbust corset with cups? I haven't been able to find much of anything about it online, which is what inspired me to come here and ask. 1183 Anybody? Anybody at all?
Dear makers:  I have been (like many of us) quiet on here for years... I do really miss this community and the format of Livejournal.  I met so many wonderful friends here.  It is nice to see the occassional post here these days. I wanted to let you all know that I am holding a beginners corsetry workshop at my studio/showroom and Chicago at the beginning of June. I hope you can make it!

07 April 2015 @ 12:29 am
I first posted on July 25, 2014 for fitting help. I made the changes and moved on to the real fabric shortly after. I'm thankful for the help I received on this forum! Finished in time for my wedding on September 6th.

The completed wedding dress!

The bustier tucks into the skirt and the peplums are attached in the skirt princess seams. I was duplicating the shape of a $12,000 dress I tried on, but making into separates so I could wear them apart in the future.
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30 March 2015 @ 05:45 pm
So I know this will be a storm of horrible risk and potential disaster, but I need some advice with the following idea.

I want to make a corset, for a cosplay, that has a high back and a zip front, with back lacing. So far, so good. I have a mockup, from Laughing Moon's Dore corset, that I'm beating into shape and the mockup is looking mostly good at this point. The fashion material I'm using is faux leather from Joann's, and the inner strength layer(s) is coutil from Richard the Thread. The zip isn't totally determined, but is probably a metal separating zipper, somewhat fancier (certainly more expensive!) than a YKK zipper, and the lining is probably cotton broadcloth, fused to coutil. I have two concerns, one about the zip front, and one about the material itself.

1) I decided that I wanted to add fingers across the zip and use swing latches to close the fingers. I am mostly worried about balancing the strain on the zip - at least in the mockup, the corset is pretty tight, though it doesn't provide much reduction. I can use the corsetmaking.com bone for the latches on the one side, but that's not an option for the finger side. In addition, I need to strengthen the layers so that the pleather has minimal opportunity to stretch. My thought there is that I will fuse a layer of coutil to the pleather on all panels, as well as one to the lining, and then treat it like a dual-layer corset.

However, that doesn't support the fingers very well, and I can't visualize how to get the zip in. My best thought on that at this point is to add a third layer, this time of a single layer of coutil, that is the shape of the front panel minus the fingers, and sew that to the lining side, using it to hold the zip in place. I will also run maybe a half-panel of the lining from the center front of the center front panel out to the fingers. Given that I want the fingers to lay flat against the front of the corset, that suggests that the fingers need to be somewhat tight.

Have I planned this well, or is there a better way to go about this task? Is there anything I can/should use in the fingers themselves to stiffen them further to provide support for the swing latches? Would putting the swing latches on either side of the zipper be a better option and still give room for me to use the zipper?

2) Pleather stretches. I have another corset from Richard the Thread's coutil, which has a narrow herringbone weave to it. That corset is two layers of the coutil and a layer of crap dead dinosaur for lining, with the occasional decorative thin pleather bunged on in various places. I haven't overtly noticed the corset stretching, but I did notice yesterday that I have a lovely rippled effect happening around the grommets in the lacing - I put a wide piece of the very thin pleather (not the quality I want to use for the new corset, which is substantially thicker; this was a remnant from a purse making project) at the cf and cb, both of which are laced, and it looks like the grommets are still holding, but the stress is starting to pull them - the "dip" in the curve is right at the grommet, and the "rise" in the curve is actually the original straight line of the seam. The corset appears to be otherwise undamaged, and the pleather does not appear to be coming out from under the grommets at all. So what's stretching? Should I worry that something clearly is?

And with that in mind, assuming that I have no money to spend (because I do not) and have the materials I have, how could I minimize the stretching of the pleather in the new corset? Is there a particular way to cut the coutil so as to minimise that? As mentioned above, I do plan to fuse the coutil to the pleather, but I'm not sure if that will solve the stretch problem. When I'm looking at a herringboned fabric, I'm not sure if straight-of-grain or cross-grain is actually less stretchy; my assumption is that it all behaves as though it's bias-cut.